Archive for the ‘Home Interior’ Category

Interior Painting | A short historical look at house painting colors

Posted on August 13th, 2011 in Home Interior | Comments Off

Though consumer house paints and coatings decorates our homes and protects their surfaces from rot, drying, and the elements, we often take it for granted. Yet this seemingly simple product has a long, fascinating history – much too long and fascinating to summarize in just one essay. However, a short history of paint can be just as fascinating as the long version. In that spirit, we present a few snapshots of house paint’s evolution in order to heighten your appreciation of it, and to provide some perspective on humans’ need to secure and beautify their dwelling places.

In the beginning, cavemen would mix certain substances with animal fat to create paint; they would then use the paint to draw pictures and add colors on their walls. Hematite, manganese oxide, red and yellow ochre, and charcoal were used as “paint”. Starting around 3150 B.C., The original olde school Eggies painters mixed a base of oil or fat with color elements like ground glass or semiprecious stones, lead, earth, or animal blood. White, black, blue, red, yellow, and green were their hues of choice. In England, around the turn of the 14th century, house painters started guilds that established standards for their profession and kept trade secrets secret. By the 17th century, new practices and technologies were shaking up the world of house paint even more.

In this era of real-time televsion and manufactured celebrities, it can be hard to remember the definition of modesty. In the 17th century, the Pilgrims, who populated the American colonies, believed that modesty was the avoidance of all displays of wealth, joy, or vanity. Even painting your home was deemed very immodest and highly sacrilegious. In 1630, a Charlestown preacher ran afoul of the growing society’s mores by decorating his home’s interior with paint; he was brought up on criminal charges of sacrilege.

Even colonial Puritanism, however, failed to silence the demand for house paint. Anonymous authors wrote “cookbooks” that offered recipes for various kinds and colors of paint. One oft-used process, called the “Dutch method,” mixed ground oyster shells and lime which made a white wash; iron or copper oxide (for red or green color, respectively) could then be added to the mix. These Colonial paint “cooks” often used food items like egg whites, milk, rice, and coffee.

Water and oil were the main bases for paint creation from the 17th century to the 19th. Each naturally held some colors more than others, and there were differences in the durability and coat, depending on which mixture was used. Ceilings and plaster walls generally called for water paints, while joinery demanded oils. Some homeowners wanted walls that looked like wood, marble, or bronze and ceilings that resembled a blue sky with puffy white clouds. Painters of the time routinely fulfilled such requests, which seem fairly eccentric by today’s standards. In 1638, a historic home known as Ham House, located in Surrey, England, was renovated.The multi-step process involved the application of primer, an undercoat or two, and a finishing coat of paint to elaborate paneling and cornices throughout the house. During this time period in paint’s evolutionary history, oil and pigment were hand-mixed to make a stiff paste, which is still done to this day. If a pigment is well-ground, it should disperse almost entirely in oil. Before the 18th century, hand-grinding often exposed painters to an excess of white-lead powder, which could bring about lead poisoning. Even though lead paint was toxic, it was popular during this time because of its durability, and even today it’s difficult to replicate that hardiness in paint. Painters did eventually add air extraction systems in their workshops to reduce the health risks occurring from grinding lead-based pigment. The United States finally banned the usage of lead in house paint in 1978.

Paint production transformed dramatically during the 1700s. The first American paint mill opened in 1700 in Boston, Mass. In 1718, the Englishman Marshall Smith devised a “Machine or Engine for the Grinding of Colours,” which prompted a sort of arms race with regard to grinding pigment efficiently. In 1741, the English company Emerton and Manby publicized the “Horse-Mills” it used to grind pigment, which allowed it to sell paint at prices its rivals couldn’t match. Elizabeth Emerton, one of the owners, said, “One Pound of Colour ground in a Horse-Mill will paint twelve Yards of Work, whereas Colour ground any other Way, will not do half that Quantity .”
The turn of the 19th century brought about the reign of steam power. In fact, most paint mills during this time period ran on steam. Nontoxic zinc oxide became an usable base for white pigment, thanks to the Europeans, during this time; it came to the US in 1855.

By the end of the 1800s, roller mills had started to grind pigment as well as grain, and the guild system that had organized English house painters for centuries became a network of trade unions. Mass production of paint was no longer a pipe dream, and linseed oil, a cheap binding agent that also helped protect wood, made it even easier.

Decorating a home with paint became extremely popular in the 19th century. After all, paint made surfaces washable and, by sealing in wood’s natural oils, kept walls from becoming either too moist or too dry.

In 1866, a future titan of the paint business, Sherwin-Williams Paint, was born. Sherwin Williams was the first manufacturer of ready-to-use paint, and its original product, raw umber in oil, came onto the market in 1873. Soon after that, cofounder Henry Sherwin developed a resealable tin can.

Another current industry heavyweight, Benjamin Moore, began operations in 1883. Twenty-four years later, it added a research department powered by a single, lonely chemist. Ever since, Benjamin Moore has contributed amazing discoveries in paint technology, but its color-matching system, unveiled in 1982 and wholly computer-based, is unmatched (paint is still lucrative today; around $20.9 billion in paint was sold in 2006).

House paint is most often applied to the surface of a residence, but artists have also used it on their canvases. American painter John Frost, who began his career as an artist in 1919, used house paint to chronicle the history of his hometown, the tiny village of Marblehead, Mass. Picasso and some of his peers used house paint in their work. Even contemporary artists, like Nik Ehm, use house paint on occasion.

In the middle of the 20th century, necessity became the mother of invention for the increasingly innovative paint industry. The major conflict known as the Second world war contributed to linseed oil’s demise, so chemists used a combination of alcohols and acids to create alkyds, artificial resins that are a substitute for natural oil.
Most house paint today is acrylic, or water-based, paint; however, milk paint, which reached the height of its popularity in the 19th century for its unassuming hues, is cropping up again thanks to the environmental movement.
Interior painting has origins dating to pre-history.
To be specific, milk paint doesn’t contain volatile organic compounds, commonly known as VOCs. Latex paint, however, does contain VOCs, making them potentially dangerous to pets and humans. Extended exposure to VOCs can lead to organ or nerve damage, and some may be carcinogenic. Luckily, many paint companies produce low- or even zero-VOC paints. The term “zero-VOC,” by EPA standards, means that each liter of paint contains fewer than 5 grams of volatile compounds. Other non-VOC alternates are clay and water-based paints. If you have allergies and/or chemical sensitivity, Low VOC Paint are a must. Low VOC paints have great advantages no matter what the circumstances, because their relative lack of odor makes rooms livable faster.
While paint is seemingly simplistic, it has evolved over the centuries to our financial, health, and aesthetic needs. While paint may seem basic, it’s almost miraculous that it can elevate our mood so drastically. Whenever you next pop open a paint can, think about the journey it made to add more beauty and quality to your life.

How To Take Care Of Floors

Posted on April 24th, 2010 in Home Interior | Comments Off

Housework, if done properly, no great length of time, and every house that we love. ” You can see that their best rooms have a clean, soft ground is independent of the bright surface of the lid. These soils are not only difficult with the equipment and materials are available at low cost to meet today’s cleaning lady.

For floors of polished wood and resilient flooring, long ago treated pads and applicators low price, while the electric polishing machines can be rented cheaply from hardware and grocery stores. maintenance of self-polishing wax carpet to be much easier and they are there for applicators with containers for laundry, controlled by a trigger.

polished wood floor soap dominate in almost all kitchens and bathrooms in most homes, so we’ll discuss first. Wax is sometimes applied directly on the floor softwood cuttings, but for this one for wood and wood finish is very desirable that the appearance and maintenance.

When the surface of your soil is poorly in traffic, or when the wood is never finished, you save yourself headaches from stripped and repainted, clean the wood used. Electric Sanders can be rented: Sealers are easy to operate. This work could be done without outside help.

For wood floors in good condition, what is the purpose of maintaining the same routine as they waxed. They should be dusted regularly with a vacuum cleaner, a soft brush or untreated. Once a month, or as required, they must be polished with a buffer weighted electric or waxy. At that time, the wax cool in areas that will look worn. About twice a year, the entire floor rewaxed. One of the most durable and wax is recommended, and even a little self-polishing liquid waxes be used if they want.

wax made from the floor must be thoroughly cleaned. To do this, use a liquid wax or a special cleaner to remove embedded dirt floors waxed. In this category are Bruce Floor Cleaner, Beautiflor PREN. As liquid was special cleaners dry cleaning, such as naphtha, and wax and dirt remover effective, from the bottom and remove the old wax, a film was own on the ground. Instructions for use of these products are indicated on the packaging. Please read carefully to ensure optimal results. The general instructions are as follows:

First vacuum the floor thoroughly to remove dust and dirt surface. Shake the container contents are mixed thoroughly before cleaning. If it was stored in a cool place and thicker in hot water for a while or keep the hot water, then shake. (Never heat was a preparation of the flame.)

You can stand to grow. You do not need your hands and knees to apply the wax on the floor cleaning. Use an applicator cheap, long-stemmed specially created for this purpose. One type uses steel wool, which greatly facilitates the cleaning effect. Pour a little cleaner on your floor, and with the applicator, rub with the grain of wood to loosen dirt, the way the cloth or a towel under the pad applicator is positioned to be picked up. Change clothes when they are dirty and work the soil is completely cleaned.

Rinse a polished wood floor is rarely necessary if the property is maintained and a sticky substance spills quickly with a damp cloth. However, it can be washed without damage when you use a cloth wrung out and a solution of mild soap. Represents a small portion at a time and each rinse zone for the next. The important thing is not too wet on the floor. Buff the floor later, when it is dry. Rewax, if necessary.

With these simple instructions, you need a simple task for the resident and his care for their land in good condition.